Camino Reflections

 

The primitivo route is for sure the hardest Camino technically and long slogs in places and still has the raw pilgrim vibe that you get in the beginning of the Camino Frances where you make and keep your family day by day. Lots of nice new albergue’s and in general enough beds and services. If your fit enough for the hills it’s a great experience other than the last 100 km but that’s also true of other camino’s.

The views were breath taking and we got lucky on the weather but the norm is rain so be prepared. Most of our family did it in 13 days and that seems to be the sweet spot, we did it in 12 but had to push hard in the first few days to catch up a day and for some people given the terrain and potential for bad weather I could easily see it breaking people in the first days.

Overall an excellent Camino tho but maybe also pack light weight fleece or micro light insulation jacket as it can get cold in parts and in the evenings.

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Day 12 – A Brea – Santiago – 25k

 

Last night’s private room was just what we needed to stay away from the Disneygrinos. There was a communal meal and they kept feeding us.was very homely. Pension the way was defo worthy of another visit if the need arrives again.

So the final assult started at 6.30 am my blisters now really giving me jip and defo slowing me down but I managed this far without ibuprofen and was determined this would be a non doping Camino for a change as I heavily relied on it in the past. Used a bit of voltarol gel on my feet and tiger balm but no pills so was determined to fight the pain and get it done.We made good time once my blisters went numb and stopped in A rue for breakfast at around the 5 k mark also waiting for daylight to arrive.

The Camino was silly Busy today but still lots of Forrest walks and road walking. Everytime we stopped it would take my blister a few hundred metres to calm down again. Karen is in fine spirits tho her blisters seemingly not effecting her at all and getting frustrated at my lack of speed.We stopped again after going over the main hill on the route for a coffee and aquarius, the lines for toilets are now their own problem and the women’s queue took over 10 mins.We progressed towards Santiago even with my foot damage and soon made it to outside mount gozo and stopped for one of the best hamburgers I ever had and it was as delicious as I remember. Now 5k to go but it felt like a lot more walking through Santiago.Then we turned and the church spire was in view and the bagpipes were being tested. The stairs down so familiar to me now and that was it no more pain as you walk on the square drop your sticks and bag and look up. It’s beautiful now without the scaffolding.

We had arrived it was finally over.I knew this trip would be pushing Karen out her comfort zone but she thrived in it, no idea of she has the bug or what she learned but very few arguments and my training and gear tips all came in handy and skipped the usual mistakes People make.As we are in Santiago for a few days we will pick up out Compostela tomorrow. But we managed to have food with Luis, Andrea, Dominique, Brian, Jake and Ellen who all shared our Camino over a number of days and became part of our camino family so it was nice to say goodbye tho we have more time with Brian, Jake and Dominique tomorrow too.

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Day 11 – Melide to A Brea – 28k

 

Last night was our last night in an albergue, it had the potential to be so bad due to a couple having a baby in the bed next to ours and we were very worried he wouldn’t sleep. We shouldn’t have been tho the baby was a champ. The Spanish however were a shower of twats. Came in pissed at 11pm like they were on a hen party clambering about lights everywhere clanging things. Albergue’s may be like hostels but there is a level of respect for the walkers normally lights out by 10 and all BADA and beds sorted way before but since the Disneygrinos rolled into town it’s a nightmare so maybe had a few hours sleep with the coughing and noises.

Thankfully tonight is a private room so will hopefully recoup some sleep.

We started out at a comprise of 6.30 and soon made great time, we knew today would be a bit longer but made good progress and got 5k done in quick time to have our first breakfast stop, a little after this we bumped into Dominique again and got the lastest Goss most of the family are going 5k further than us tonight but we will hopefully catch them up in Santiago.

We stopped and had second breakfast a solid tradition on Camino and then walked our own walk. Yesterday I finally got my first blister and it’s letting me know about it today even tho I threaded it last night. Lots of Forrest trails and a little road walking today but far more services and stopping opportunity’s.

Once again the heat took over and my blister made the last 7k a bitch and I’m sure I have more blisters today, the Camino always makes me work for the win.

But I finally got Karen her pool for a night at least even if I did mess the booking up for the room. 25k to go and we’re done. With 3 nights in santiago to wind down.

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Day 10 – Ferreira – Melida – 20k

 

Had a lovely dinner made up of random items on their menu to avoid an vegetarian menu in albergue last night:

So our third bunk mate never appeared Sona private room last night with ensuite was 30 euro. Tonight we have a an albergue booked in Melida where the French Camino also meets so it’s going to get busy. As we were only going 20k today we took up the albergue’s breakfast offer before we went it was 4 euro each for cakes, cereal, toast and coffee.

We left around half 8 which is late for us but didn’t take us long to conquer the first 5k to the first bar. Was about half way up the main hill on today’s Camino only 300m but it was enough to catch the Disneygrinos out. After an aquade a pepsi equivalent of aquarius we went 5k over the mountain only for a 5k downhill to the next bar. Not so many services today and lots of road walking but we’re making steady progress.

Our Camino family is all over the place as people are trying to line up their final assault on Santiago depending on time and resources as Santiago is very expensive at the mo on high season far more than I remember. So some people will aim for a super short walk on the last day together in to Santiago get their certificates go to the midday mass and then leave town either flying or getting transport home.

We have booked a pension in A Brea which is about 25k from Santiago so about 58k to go currently so a 28k day tomorrow and then 25k on the final day.

The last 5k of today the sun turned the heat up and it was a hot slog so we have decided to revert back to early morning walking to avoid the sun.

I finally had a tiny blister and today it’s grown so the sowing needle has been used in anger but I’ve had far worse and is not allowing me down.

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