Day 7 – Fonsagrada – O Cadavo – 27k

 

Another early start after yesterday’s hot afternoon we were determined not to be out aslong if at all possible. Was a clear morning for a change So we made good progress in the dark. Today is the last day of the high mountains so one last big push.

So a gradual climb followed by a big descent a bit of up and down then two large asscents followed by more up and downs. Looks simple enough.We had coffee and breakfast in Vilardongo it was the first place open around 5km in then had more coffee in Paradavella at the bottom of the long descent which we reached by 10 am, these downhill sections really heat up the feet and are very tiring. This little cafe was playing English power ballads it’s unusual to find English music on Camino but very fun. We pressed on the weather a bit misty in low lying areas and the sun had not yet made it out yet. We got up the first hill section when the sun came out. The second section was a lot better but still not easy in the heat.There were not too many services again today and the path was very exposed to the sun so once again another day of slogging out the last 5k. Feet are still sore and achey from all the big hills let’s hope the next 5 days are a little easier on the feet. Tomorrow we have 30k until Lugo a bigger city and always planned to book a nice hotel so that’s the plan.

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Day 6 – Grandas de Selina – Fonsagrada – 27km

 

We once again failed to slip out of the albergue in stealth mode not naming names but by now you should know who clattered everything. Wasn’t that misty this morning and on paper the route looked fairly chill for the first bit after the initial hill leaving town and we made good progress looking for a coffee. Alas everywhere was closed in the first village so we stopped in a closed bar and ate breakfast. We weren’t sure if our moving round chairs woke the home owner but she soon came out and started opening her shop and asked us to leave so she could clean. No idea why she didn’t ask us in to buy stuff.

We made good progress after 5km our main challenge of the day started an 1000m climb over 4km. Just as we approached the mist was burned off by the sun making the challenge a lot worse. It soon heated up to 30 °c and my sweating was in full effect. We took breaks in the shade where we could. After a few rolls and food we conquered the mountain. The views were stunning.

On the way back down the hill we entered Galicia so the arrows are now different and they also countdown the finish as we got to back down from the mountain we found a bar for refreshments. However we now still had 12-13 km to do going up and down but completely in the open. So we were being cooked by the sun. Lots of suntan lotion later we slogged and sweated on until we found a posh restaurant that was a BBQ place but this wasn’t the time to eat so we had an aquarius and got back on the road.

We soon meandered until we could see Fonsagrada up on the hill way ahead of us. We knew it was up a hill but this was the steepest hill so far on the Camino. In the hot sun another slugfest up what has been named motherfucker hill. The day has wiped us out but staying in the most modern albergue it’s seriously nice and custom made. They even have heated boot drying racks. We have now less that 155km to go and on track to finish as planned on day 12 so we are halfway in days and km’s.

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Day 5 – Berducedo – Grandas da Selima – 22k

 

After conquering the mountains we were in high spirits but also very tired so after a decent meal we were taking advantage of the private beds. Zzz’s were the order of the day.

We once again got up at 5.30 to be on Camino by 6 so we can get some cool kilometers in this morning a village called La Mesa was calling and we made great progress with the first 5k the plan being to have a nice breakfast as there was a big descent enroute today. We got to the village and found a nice bench and started eating. No sooner had we done that but this all best friendly daft white Labrador started jumping over us trying to get our food. This turned into an elongated process like a comedy sketch as he tried to steal anything we had including alcohol gel. We rescued our stuff and continued walking down the road where the dog soon ran after a nearby cat just as we found and albergue with a cafe. We stopped in and it was very modern and had coffee and a pan au chocolat. Filled with good spirits and now having the light with us we started the descent an everlasting shale dust path descent through dense woods and some areas that had seen fire in recent years.

The views of the reservoirs below and mountains were stunning tho. We eventually joined the road and crossed a hydro electric dam with lots of creepy abounded industrial buildings whilst joking it would make a great set for a bond movie.

With all good things that coming down brings we then had to join the road and travel up the other side of the valley and made our way to a hotel overlooking the whole thing for refreshments.

The last day or two we have seen a transformation in Karen’s approach and attitude on Camino I think it may have clicked and she is getting in the grove. She is certainly powering up the hills and doing well on the downhills which don’t help her back.

The sun was out in force again today for us walking up the last road and the sun lotion finaly made its debut.

It was a hot slog up the final hill but the views were stunning. The last few km are always a bitch no matter the distance , I think it’s a head thing if you could trick yourself into believing you have a longer way to go you would be fine. We finally diverted onto another Forrest trail for the last 2km then into Grandas to find the albergue. We are in a Municipal albergue so only 6 euros for the night and managed to use a washing machine and dryer on our clothes. We went out for supplies and our tea another pilgrim menu and now ready for bed. That’s you all caught up, hopefully the internet god’s will be with us from here.

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