Day 4 – Ordes to Santiago 30k

 So the final day of the Camino Ingles.  We knew there was a big task of getting 30k done so another 4.30 am start but this time no Forrest paths and trails just bang on down the n-550 road 13k until we get to Siguerio.  Honestly if I said I was going to walk down the side of a main road with out pavements in Aberdeen I am sure people would stop me.  But here I genuinely didn’t feel unsafe at all the roads are wide and generally have a good gap to the edge.  We made very good time however the difference today is the facilities, bars and cafes every few km all open at 5 am it was great to be able to stop for a coffee and toast.  There were more bars and restaurants on this 13k than the whole Camino.  We soon made it in to Siguerio and got a pan au chocolate and an Aquarius.  According to the map it was 17km to go so we joined the Camino for a bit bit as Lauren was tracking today we could see the Camino was zig zagging seriously badly so decided when it came back to the n-550 we would return to the road and walk the direct route.  This was all fine until we started getting into idustrial estates and the road met the motorway so we decided to peel off the road and look for a safer path.  The last 7k was a bitch no doubt about it.  Guided by google maps we made good progress but it was a hard slog we both are feeling it today I have my tendon flairs back and my feet are in bits and Lauren’s foot and hips now not in a good way but with Santiago in sight and many mini breaks we made it to the side of the cathedral.  We walked into the  cathedral square and dropped the bags and sat and relaxed for a bit.  We then went in search of our hotel, a shower cures so much.  After a shower we went out for food to my favorite place and I introduced Lauren to padron peppers and pulpo.  After a snooze we went to get our compostella and managed to just catch the evening pilgrim mass where the butofumeria was in full swing.  

So the plans now have changed and this is due to the blisters, aches and pains we both currently have.  Sure we could try and press on to finisterra but to what end? Further injury will surely follow and we already have a big month when we get back with my new job and moving into the house.  So we shall still go to finisterra and Muxia but by bus and spend the last week being a tourist and chilling two caminos is enough for this trip and I feel if I carry on walking it will only further damage previous injuries and Lauren feels the same especially with her previous back issues.  So now we will just be tourists.  So this will probably be my last blog of the trip and I will just update pics to Facebook I’m sure.

Would I recommend the Camino Ingles? No I think there are better more mature routes with better facilities two of the days were great but the rest really let it down!

Pics from today:

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Day 3 – Betanzos to Ordes 30k

 So I have to admit the alarm going off at half 4 sucked.  When we for up into darkness destined to walk with head torches it wasn’t great it was cold and there was a big mist in and that was making everything damp.  We walked up a hill and through forest paths being covered in spiders webs and found it hard to get warmed up.  We were aware of the 28k day ahead with very few towns or stops but it was a hard slog before it was even light.  It was basically an acaending day for the whole day so lots of hills.

After 14k we found a cafe for breakfast and a well earned break.  we got back to the walking but it was tricky to warm up due to the dew and misty cloud. But the sun came out and we were soon pushing 19k when the big ascent happened from about 116m to 456m within 4k with the sun now warming is up this made for a hot a sweaty affair.

After the hill of doom we still had 5k to go and although it was still fairly early in the day out pace slowed and the sun started beating us down making for a tired slog to the finish. The finish today wasn’t really the finish however but as we arrived to Bruma the albergue now packed with waiting pilgrims we managed to see half the problem of capactity on this Camino with easily 30 pilgrims there but for us we were going to taxigrino it for about 7k to Ordes where we had a hotel.  This was because it was the only place with accommodation and there was sweet fuck all in Bruma didn’t even have a cafe or a bar.

So after a short taxi ride we arrived but very tired tomorrow Santiago now in our sights after another 30k tomorrow but on much simpler terrain so all be it well this will be finished.  The lack of facilities, accommodation bars and cafes made today’s stage frankly a shitty day.  And whilst we did manage it it’s making me think I would not recommend this route even in quieter months it’s just not mature enough.

Pics from today:

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Day 2 – Pontedeume to Betanzos 21k

 So I realize I kinda went into day 1 of the blog without giving some context to this camino.  We are doing the Camino Ingles aka the English way.  Essentially back in the day the Brits used to get off the boat at Ferrol and walk the remaining days to Santiago.  As it is outside the critical 100km mark this meant they got their compostella and as such their blessings.

So we started by walking from the top of the steps at the Barbour in Ferrol much like many people before us.  The route is about 117km and most people do this over 4-6 days but on average 5.  This is not a hugly busy route with numbers annually under 4k.  However to our discovery there is limited accommodation and the albergues as tiny.  After reading a few blogs this did not seem to be a problem as people seemed to find beds with no issue however on our Camino we have found we are in a wave of at a punt 40-50 pilgrims so capactity for beds even in pensions and hotels.  With this said genius of booking.com that I am we figured a way around some of this at least with a slightly modified route but still over the required 100km.  Anyway back to the show!

This morning we woke up at 7 knowing today should be a fairly short day. Around 20-21k.  After overestimating the size of the pizza last night we tried to eat cold pizza but this resulted in scrunched up faces and the pizza staying in its box.  We didn’t walk long when we faced a very steep uphill section that certainly warmed us up and woke us up.  Today we were warned it was an up and down affair and it did not let up all day.  Lauren’s bruised foot seems to be ok when walking but certainly giving her pain when we stop and in the afternoon.  But with ibuprofen she seems to be doing ok and isn’t even on the Spanish ibuprofen yet so seems to be ok for walking at least.  The pain just started with no rhyme or reason but is the location of a previous incident with a steel base plate about 10 years ago and that seems to be the blame and something about this walking has awoken the injury but was not to be seen in training walks.  Today’s walk although strenuous up and down hills was super pretty from vista’s to wee small villages it was a very pretty walk.  Today the sun is back out and blessed us with a final hour of profuse sweating and heat.  Today’s shorter walk gives us a 30km walk tomorrow to Bruma which we already know we will be screwed for accommodation but if we taxigrino from there to a town off Camino called Ordes we have a hotel booked this will mean the following day we will be off Camino for 13km while we walk south to meet the Camino.  The Camino runs parrallel but the motor way separates us with no option to cross.  By the time we get back on the Camino there will only be 17km to Santiago so if all is well we will go for the finish.  Returning us back to our 4 day plan.  We both agree this is not ideal and we certainly missed some of the experience not being in albergues but we are unable to control things and we really don’t want to get into a bed rush or take a bed from someone on tight budget when truth be told we can afford hotels without worry.

But aside from the foot issue and the capacity issue we are still enjoying the Camino for what it is and spending time with each other on this experience.  This includes the introductions to Cheetos which are like wotsits used to be like before they had to change the formula because of the E numbers and my love affair with Aquarius lemon.  The food so far was been great and coffee remains really good and today we even got proper toast so my Spanish is still doing ok.

So far my impressions of the Camino are very good as far as route goes but the limited facilities and lack of beds and pensions and hotels really have made it tricky and I would only advise this route out of peak season at this point.

Combined pics from the day:

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